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RESHAFT - .350 tip in place of .335 tip


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#1 joo

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 01:58 AM

Want to reshaft a titleist 980f 3 wood. The original shaft is a .335 tip and the new shaft (a Purple Ice 85 gram) is .350 tip.  Should this be a routine job for any experienced club maker - even those at Golfsmiths or Golf Galaxy? Also since the club is a Bore-through - what should I tip the shaft if any? In a non-bore thru Graphite Design says to tip 1" for a 3 wood but this is a bore-thru. I want HIGH ball flight.


#2 jaw2000

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 09:43 AM

I don't think it will work. I would suspect no tipping.   The builder may be able to slice off the .025" with an exacto knife and sandpaper - that is 'taper it'.  But if he does, I'd bet he'd not give you ANY guarantee of any kind. Good luck.

#3 roydjt

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 06:16 PM

The clubmaker can either shave the shaft or bore out the head.  Shaving the shaft involves reducing the diameter to the point where the finish is gone and some of the fibers are removed to reach the desired diameter.  This can compromise the durability and performance of the shaft.  The fibers and the finish, are there for a reason.  Boring the head out is something that isn't too hard to do with the proper equipment (drill press with the proper clamping device) but still should only be done by an experienced clubmaker.  Even then, you will run a small risk that something may go wrong.   -Roy
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#4 Thumper Sr

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 09:10 AM

I would avoid doing this.  Shimming a smaller shaft is no problem, but making the changes needed for a larger shaft compromises the shaft and/or head.  Just get a smaller shaft.  Good luck.

#5 tmkellyjr

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 03:53 PM

I have reduced at least 15 Aldila NV shafts from .350 to .335 and not had a failure.  Be VERY, VERY CAREFUL with a belt sander.  Just the bottom half-inch needs to be sanded.  I've also taken down .370 to .355 shafts for hybrids with equal success.  If you can turn ferrules on a belt sander you can reduce the shafts.


#6 jaw2000

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 06:47 PM

I have reduced 370 to 355 - for irons not an issue, I am concerned with the fact that it's a bore-thru head - and may require a significantly longer area of reduction.

#7 thewitt

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Posted 25 August 2008 - 11:44 AM

Changing a .370 parallel iron shaft to a .355 taper iron shaft is simple. It is in fact how .355 taper graphite shafts are manufactured - the taper is ground into the tip of a .370 (.365) parallel tip shaft. The taper is only in the first 5/8" of the shaft for a graphite taper tip. Trying to take a .350 parallel shaft and make it into a .335 parallel shaft is not recommended. Though there are certainly some thick walled shafts that can take it, you are going to be removing a significant amount of fiber for most shafts and you will compromise the strength. You have to remove this the whole length of the bore through - not simply the last 1" (not sure where that came from) - and again, in most shafts this will seriously degrade their strength and will more than likely snap off at the hosel. -t

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Tim Hewitt
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#8 joo

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Posted 25 August 2008 - 04:16 PM

Thank for all the replies. It seems the concensus is NOT to reduce the shaft. But short of getting a .335 tip is it also not a good idea to enlarge the bore-through to accommodate the larger shaft?

#9 jaw2000

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Posted 25 August 2008 - 04:23 PM

You certainly could do that - but and this is a wild guess, the cost to ream out the borethru might be more than the cost for a new shaft?

#10 thewitt

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Posted 25 August 2008 - 05:06 PM

Whether or not you can ream the head will depend on the thickness of the hosel walls. You may end up "breaking into" the inside of the head if the hosel walls inside the shaft are not thick enough - or the reamer ends up taking off more material on one side than the other. Definitely don't let anyone do this with a drill bit - only a reamer and in a drill press with a clubhead vise... -t


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Tim Hewitt
PCS Certified "Class A" Clubmaker & Component Supplier. Certified Rifle Center



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